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Every night during Britain’s first lockdown, chef Joudie Kalla’s phone would ring at exactly 7pm. The friend on the other end would not need to say a word. Instead, she would sit watching on FaceTime as Kalla forced down mouthful after mouthful, or they would eat together in companionable silence, or she would tell Kalla anecdotes about her day, before ringing off and repeating the whole process the following evening. The kind gesture helped Palestinian...

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